HYCLAT

Overall quality is good and at a very low price. The plastic housing is thick, solid and of good quality. Makes a solid connection with my BYD Lifepo4 batter pack and I really like the caps. Will more like use the caps on the Anderson connector on my battery. The instruction included were very clear on how to orient the lugs as I was a bit unsure. The only issue I had was crimping the lugs. These guys are thick. I believe they are tinned copper as I could see the copper coloration after crimping. If you have access to a hydraulic crimper I would strongly suggest it. I had a hammer type and it took me about 10 wacks with a small sledge hammer to make a solid connection. Even then it was not the best but since my installation is stationary and there will be no vibrations it should hold.

I recently installed a small winch in the bed of my truck to help me pull my ATV into the bed. I didn't want to hardwire the winch but instead use jumper cables to attach directly to the battery when I need to use the winch. I was worried about having loose jumper cables attached to the winch (possible shorting out if they touched something) so I decided to install some quick disconnect plugs. So when not in use the ends of the cable where safely covered and when needed I could uncap the plug then attach the jumper cable onto the winch and attach the other end of the jumper to the battery with no exposed wire in between. I cut the clamps off one end of a standard jumper cable and attached the quick disconnect plug using a soldering torch (torch and not my soldering gun because of the thickness of the wire) to the other end. If you have basic soldering skills it is fairly easy to attach the plug. If not you can also crimp the plug on. I prefer/recommend soldering because it is a more solid way to connect the plug.

I used these to make quick connects for a 9500 pound winch on my truck. I have it set up to be removable and wanted to use it on the front or rear hitch mount. This set was fairly easy to install if you have an average shop setup. I crimped 4 gauge wire into them and then soldered the connections to insure durability. You will need a vise to crimp the connectors as they are pretty stiff but were not damaged by heating them to add solder. I did have a little trouble getting the connectors to push far enough into the plastic housing to clip into place, especially after crimping the wire which made them wider. I had to use a little silicon spray to get them to push in far enough to stay in place. The connection between the two units seem to be solid and I did not have any loss of voltage when I put a meter on them. They hold solid but will come apart with a normal amount of effort. I will see how they hold up but my first impression is favorable and winch works using these connections.

These are great. I used them to make a safer disconnect for my outboard, since the disconnect is located in the fuel compartment and any exposed contacts are an arc/fire/explosion hazard, I got a couple sizes too big, and the metal is way too beefy to crimp without a hydraulic crimper, but I just doubled up the wire (bent the stripped section double), heated the receptacle with a torch, and then flowed solder into the excess space until it was full. Worked great. Only one annoying (very annoying) thing: the wire leashes.keeper cords on the safety covers (which are awesome) *barely* barely barely are long enough to actually let you plug the covers into the unit when it's not in use. An extra eighth of an inch of wire would have made all the difference - instead it's the one annoying thing about otherwise great units.

Just got these in yesterday and installed them today. I bought a winch to mount to my receiver for those tomes where winching in reverse is necessary. Clipped the wires on the winch cable as needed and installed the new quick connect plugs. I chose to solder the pins as opposed to crimping. Worked great and I now have a portable rear winch that I can put on when I need it. It hooks up quickly. One word of advice when soldering the wires into the pins - don’t get any excess solder on the outside of the pin (like I did on one). It will not Lock in place because the pin will not go into the plug far enough. For $12, you can’t go wrong.

They are easy to put together once you figure out which way the metal inserts go. Seem to be very durable, maybe a little on the brittle side as far as the plastic parts, but they are thick. When put together they lock with a solid click and does require some force to pull apart. I have a truck with front and rear receivers for placing a portable winch on the truck. So I put a plug both on the front and rear ends and one on the winch to change it from a hard wire to a plug in. That left me with a spare plug so I modified a set of jumper cables so that they can plug into either plug on the truck. I can jump or be jumped by just plugging in the one end of the cables to my truck and clamping the other end to another vehicle's battery. I also put a battery switch under the hood so that I can turn the plugs on one at a time, both on at the same time or both off. Off will be the normal state of things unless I need the plug to be energized. Now there's no chance of my battery being shorted by something being stuck in the plugs. Just a little extra insurance.

Good quality and muuuuuuuch cheaper than buying them at a local auto parts store. I use them in sub zero temperatures with no problems. They also come with the nice cover that the auto parts store ones do not have!

First I understand Anderson style connectors are heavy duty and require special crimping tools. I have been using this type of connector for years, and really like the way they work. Typically they're pretty easy to assemble, but these are another story. I am working on a small 1200W solar backup power system in my garage to allow us to charge devices, run lights, etc when the power is out. I had one set of these disconnects in 2 gauge from another brand that I used to create a disconnect between the battery and distribution blocks. I ordered this set in 4 gauge to make a disconnect for the power inverter. I used a hammer style crimper where you slide the terminal over the wire, put it in the crimper and wack the compression pin with a hammer. The other brand 2 gauge connect yielded and crimped onto the wire perfectly with 2-3 medium strength blows with a 3lb sledge hammer. I am guessing these were made out of a tinned copper or other soft metal. This brand however must be made from some sort of hardened metal, maybe steel? I barely had made a dent in them after 5 hard blows with the 3lb sledgehammer. I had to break out the larger 6 lb hammer and it took 10+ whacks to get them to collapse enough to securely crimp onto the wire. All of this repeated hitting with the large hammer made the tool jump around and the crimp, while now secure, turned out ugly. Thankfully it's not visible since I covered it in heat shrink tubing and it's covered by the plastic housing. Definitely way more effort than should be needed to crimp a terminal. The housing between the two brands looks identical, the metal terminals did as well. But these take way too much force to crimp. So if you plan to buy these make sure you own a heavy duty hydraulic crimper, or a hammer crimper and large sledge hammer. Don't plan to be able to crimp these with a cheaper non-hydraulic heavy duty crimper, or even a bench vise. Alternatively you could notch them with a rotary tool and solder them onto the wire. Realistically if you are a DIY'er like me, you'll be much better off with another brand that doesn't make the terminals out of hardened metal. I am being generous and giving these 3 stars because once finally crimped they do look nice and work well. If you have access to a high end hydraulic crimper you'll likely have no issues. *Pictured - on the right is the other brand that crimped nicely, to the left are the ones in this listing. Despite looking identical, there's a huge difference in the ease of crimping.

worked perfect for my boat winch to truck connection.

THE ADVERT SAYS A PACK OF 2 , But how on earth can you claim that its a pack of 2 when all you sent was 2 different sides of the same connector?. What is being advertised is actually 1 connector because with out both pieces all you have is 2 wires going into one connector that is not connected to anything. if you need connectors to make 1 connection you cannot claim that this is a pack of 2. My advice is just get the thing off Ebay coz you can get the exact same thing from china at a fraction of the price. Waste of money

Excellent quality.