Deluxe Knife Sharpening System

I’ve been using the Lansky Deluxe Knife Sharpening System for a few months now, and it’s hands down one of the best sharpening kits I’ve ever owned. Whether you’re a beginner or a seasoned outdoorsman, this system gives you razor sharp edges with minimal effort. The guided sharpening angle system is a game changer, it takes all the guesswork out of sharpening and ensures consistent, repeatable results every time. The set includes a wide range of diamond-coated rods and ceramic hones, covering everything from coarse sharpening to fine polishing. I appreciate the sturdy clamp that securely holds knives of various sizes, and the compact case makes it easy to store and carry. Plus, it works great on all types of blades, from hunting knives to kitchen cutlery. If you want a reliable, high-quality sharpening system that truly sharpens like a pro, Lansky Deluxe is worth every penny.

This is definitely the best knife sharpening system for the price that I have used. It can do everything from just honing a slightly dull blade to re-profiling a blade you wish to change the cutting angle on. I have done this on my kitchen knives and achieved great success. It is fairly easy to get used to and quite safe to use also.

So I have only had this item for a day as I have a kitchen knife that was completely ruined by someone who "attempted" to sharpen it. Watching a few youtube videos, I begun to understand how the system works, and what you should be doing to get that perfect edge. Key points to note. The rods go into the underside of the sharpening stone, and not on top (like I initially did). This caused about half an hour of delay and realising I wasn't actually going very far as the angle was too acute. Swapped it around to the correct way, and levelled the bar with the flat edge of the sharpening stone (put the bar in the stone slot, and place the stone face down on a flat surface. Then tighten the thumbscrew and check alignment. Depending on the quality of the blade, choose your grit. The lower the number, the more coarse the stone is (you can feel the difference by rubbing your finger over each stone). Kitchen knives will generally want to be sharpened to 20 degrees, however check with the knife manufacturer on what degree your knife was initially made to. Work the blade until you can feel a bur on the underside of the entirety blade. Flip it over, and do the same again. Once the bur is on the underside of the blade, go down coarseness. I personally used black for about half an hour (trust me, my knife was completely and utterly ruined), then move on to red / grey / blue / and finally finish off with yellow. Between each stone, make sure you get a bur on the underside of the knife, flip it, bur the opposite side, swap out for finer stone. It's a pretty simple process, and once you are done, you'll have a perfectly sharp blade once again. Pros: Packaging is nice, and should last for years. Does what it's meant to, and sharpen your blades to a nice finish. Cons: Ok, so I'm being slightly over-critical here. This set isn't complete. You pretty much HAVE to have a Lansky pedestal to go along with this. I tried to sharpen without the pedestal just to see the difference and it was extremely difficult to say the least. Nevermind the increased risk of cutting yourself. Also, for a perfect finish, you need the leather stropping hone (also an additional purchase). Lack of instructions included with the system was a bit of a downer. EDIT: Also, the rubber pads that come on the clamp have slightly dislodged with only about 1 hour of use. I'm pretty gutted about this, but I will buy some epoxy and stick those suckers back in place once they no longer hold their place. I would have expected a very high grade glue used, but alas it wasn't that great. I managed to realign them just by pushing on the side and they moved back in place. Hey Lansky, if you're listening, improve the glue on the rubber grips! Conclusion: Works really well, and brought my notched blunt kitchen knife back into working service. I still have quite a bit of work left to work out my notches, but eventually it'll be brilliant. I rated this 4/5 because the leather strop was an additional purchase. In my opinion, and feel free to disagree with me here, is that a "Deluxe" sharpening system should have a leather strop included to do a professional finish. But that's just my 2c! If you're new to this system, buy this kit with a pedestal, and if you really want to do a great finish, get the leather strop too.

On opening the box you could be forgiven for wondering what fiendishly complex sharpening kit you've just bought for yourself. Don't worry - the Lansky kit is actually extremely simple to use. With a tradntional whetstone, the stone remains stationary while you move the knife (usually freehand) across the stone's surface to achieve an edge. The quality of the edge depends very much on the angle you sharpen the blade at, the amount of pressure applied and the coarseness of the stone. With all these variables it takes a LOT of practice to do a "proper job". The Lansky kit makes it simple to achieve wonderfully sharp, consistent edges by turning the principle on it's head. Rather than keep the whetstone still, you clamp the knife in place and, using a guide rod and a series of spaced holes in the clamp move the whetstone along the blade. By placing the guide holes in the clamp and fixing the blade, you are ensured of getting a near perfectly consistent sharpening angle across the length of the blade. The Deluxe kit comes with 5 whetstones of varying coarseness, ranging from 70 to 1000. The grade 70 stone should be used sparingly to take out any major nicks in a blade while the 1000 grade stone will hone the finest of edges. Complete with a 30ml bottle of "Nathan's Natural Honing Oil" to lubricate the stones, this kit should last a good while. I've found that one drop of oil is plenty for the fine stone, while a couple of drops works better for the coarse stone. In use, the clamp itself can be a bit fiddly to hold, so I'd recommend purchasing it with the "Super C" clamp which will allow you to mount the whole setup firmly to a table and leave both hands free for sharpening duties. It also means that you can keep your fingers out of the way which is a good thing as a freshly Lansky sharpened knife has an amazingly sharp edge on it. I've foud that sharpening a knife will range from between 2 and 5 minutes depending on how dull/damaged the blade is to start with - if you keep maintaining the edge with your lansky kit then I expect the time will lessen as maintenance is easier than repair. Sharp knives are always safer than dull ones and this has to be the best knife sharpening system that I've ever used. Kinder to the knives than your typical "supermarket gadget" sharpener; achieves a finer edge than a sharpening steel; easier and more consistent than a regular whetstone. Highly recommended.

I bought this System needing to sharpen specialist Saddlery blades including a Saddlers round knife and the 6 inch flat blade for my leather splitting machine. I found it worked great for my kitchen knives. Holding the other blades firmly in the System was a bit of a challenge, but I got there. The System is not geared for removing large amounts of material and therefore it took a long time for me to get the angle I wanted, but with my diamond sharpening block at No.200 I was able to get it eventually and then the Lansky came into its own. Perfect for a uniform edge at the correct angle. I had to use a bit of ingenuity to keep the blades at right angles to the device, but then the System took over with the angle options. Once I knew what I was doing, I was confident for the first time about sharpening my Saddlery tools. It can be a bit messy because of the use of oil to lubricate and clean, but a pair of latex gloves and a towel on the bench overcame that. Found I could use WD40 once the oil provided ran low. Unfortunately due to illness, I can rarely work on my Saddlery now, and needed an easy method for sharpening tools. but I was pleased with the Lansky Deluxe Knife Sharpening System and would recommend it.

I am a man, and I like to do manly things. I cook, I tinker with my car and bikes, I build things around the house, decorate, smoke copious amounts of meat on my barbecue, and all the other things men should do. What I can't do, however, is sharpen a knife! I have tried all manner of counter top sharpeners and whetstone, and the best I can do is ruin a blade. Then I bought this Lansky sharpening system, and what a game changer it is! I bought it on the recommendation of a friend that had attended a knife making course, and they had used it there. I also bought the support stand to go with it. It's brilliant. That's all I can say. Brilliant! Once you have your knife blade clamped into the vice, using each sharpening stone in turn couldn't be easier. The guides, once located into the correct angled hole, give a consistent and perfect angle on the blade, and all that is required is a little time to guide the stones back and forth, with a little pressure on the backstroke, to get a perfect, razor sharp edge. This felt at first like a bit of a gamble, having already spent money on other sharpeners, but I'm so glad I did. This is by far the best and last sharpener I shall ever use, and it is fully deserving of a five star review. I absolutely, whole heartedly recommend this system. I always try to write an honest and unbiased review of all the products I order. My reviews are only my opinion, of course, but I hope they help.

The only job for reliable knife sharpening. Will get you shaving sharp for the minimum of effort. Wish I bought it sooner. Would highly recommend the additional ultra fine stone and leather strop attachment for ridiculous sharpness, which can be bought separately.

I have had the Lansky Deluxe system for a couple of weeks now and sharpened several blades. Actually at first I thought it was not very good at all, and I still think it has issues but I can say that it is capable of sharpening some blades to a very good edge and actually can do so quite quickly on a knife that has not completely lost its edge - apart from assembling the stones and rods. However the big issue I have with the system is the clamp. On small blades e.g. my Victorinox Swiss Army Knife you have to clamp right at the back otherwise sharpening at the preferred 20 degree angle you just end up grinding the clamp tip instead of the knife edge. Even when set up optimally it is a close thing. I have no idea how anyone can sharpen say a X-Acto blade at 17 degrees - the blade would appear to be too narrow and the angle too acute for the stone to hit the blade at all. If anyone knows how to use this system for such a blade please can you add a comment? Note this is the latest rubber padded version, not any older version. Apparently the ideal protrusion for a blade is about half an inch - and this is presumably where the stone angle will be correct if using a correctly assembled stone with straight guide rods - which it is well worth taking some time to assemble these properly. I found that longer blades and also ones where the tip curls away a lot are best re-positioned in the clamp once or twice and sharpened in sections otherwise the angle gets 'sub-optimal' as the stone is moved out towards either end of the blade. Re-edging a really dull blade takes some work - where the course stones are needed due to completely lost edge - expect to apply more force and to grind for quite a while in some cases before the new edge bevel is established. Moving on to a finer stone too early is a waste of time because if you have not established an edge, no amount of find grind and polishing will sharpen it. That was one of my noobie errors... Oops - back to my biggest gripe, the clamp. It has changed design recently and now has rubber pads stuck in it. This works great for a broad bladed knife - and I now have some kitchen knives which can slice through food better than I have ever had before. However for a thin blade where you clamp near the back edge, while it may seems to hold the blade OK at first, when you start applying any force the blade deflects downwards in the clamp due to the flexibility of the rubber and the narrow amount of blade in the clamp - so as you press down to sharpen so you do not get a consistent grind angle - which after all is the whole point of such a tool. If I wanted a variable grind angle I could go back to hand sharpening on a whetstone. So I would say this tool is not really ideally suited to sharpen for example a blunt Swiss Army Knife. Not to say you can not do it - and dressing up the edge of a slightly dulled one using lower force with the fine stones is viable, but to re-establish an accurate 20 degree bevel on a blunt blade is really not easy at all due to this rubber clamp insert flex problem - lighter force has to be used than would be ideal for the initial course grind. You can probably improve this slightly by using a Lansky Stand to hold the clamp and holding the knife handle in your now freed up second hand to support it, but this is awkward unless you are very ambidextrous and probably does not entirely eliminate the problem. So I have mixed feelings about this system. It is quite expensive but does not sharpen small blades as easily as it should in my view. A note regarding stone assembly - the plastic case clips are too tight so it is easy to bend the rods while getting them out the case. Not a big deal but a slight annoyance. The instructions which came with the knife were OK - but the video on the Lansky web site is confusing because it shows an earlier version without rubber inserts. Also some yet older versions had a notch at the front to hold small blades, maybe that worked better than the current version. By the way I did take heed of the advice to keep the gap at the back of the clamp wide than at the front screw - this helps by making the clamp closer to the tapering angle of a typical blade's profile - but when you are only able to clamp a few mm in a rubber lined jaw it will never be very rigid. The Lansky's instruction tip of push to grind and lift back seems to work best, seems less natural initially than a to-and-fro movement somehow but seems to grind better somehow, perhaps it cleans the stone of debris better than dragging it back over the stone face during the pull stroke. I would welcome any comments on the above. I know that sharpening with this system is a skill to be learned, not instant gratification - and I know I am still learning. Overall I would give this system 4 stars for sharpening kitchen knives and larger blades (deducting one star for having to straighten out rods bent slightly while removing from box) and 2 stars for sharpening small blades so average = 3.

Ich habe mir dieses Schärfset gekauft, da ich mit regulären Schleifsteinen Probleme hatte, den Schleifwinkel konstant zu halten. Ich habe dieses Set schon oft bei Messermachern in duzenden YouTube Videos gesehen und wusste daher genau, was ich zu erwarten hatte und wie man dieses Set benutzt. Ich bin selbst Messermacher und benötige für den ersten Schliff eines neuen Messers besonders grobe Schleifsteine, da diese viel Material in kurzer Zeit von der Schneide nehmen. Leider musste ich feststellen, dass die Angaben des Herstellers bezüglich der Schleifkörnung auf den Steinen etwas untertrieben sind. Der "gröbste" Stein soll eine Körnung von 70 haben. Dies entspricht nicht der Realität. Ich würde diesen speziellen Stein eher mit einer Körung von 150-200 angeben. Der feinste Stein mit einer Körnung von 1000 hat wohl eher eine sehr viel feinere Körnung. Man hört beim Schleifen kaum den Materialabrieb, wie es bei einer 4000 - 8000er Körnung der Fall ist. Die Steine erfüllen trotzdem ihren Zweck und das soll auch kein großartiger Kritikpunkt sein, da dieses Problem bei vielen Herstellern von Schleifsteinen auftritt. Ich habe mir einfach stattdessen ein Stück Schleifpapier unter einen der Steine geklemmt, das eine sehr grobe Körung hat. So konnte ich meine Erwartung letztendlich retten. Der Schleifprozess nach dem groben Vorschliff mit dem Papier ist ziemlich leicht und geht sehr schnell. Ich würde aber empfehlen, die Steine in voller Länge zu nutzen, da sonst schnell eine Vertiefung in der Mitte entsteht. Außerdem habe ich bemerkt, dass man schnell dazu neigt, die Steine stärker aufzudrücken. Dies ist nicht notwendig und verkürzt auf Dauer die Haltbarkeit des Steins. Dem Set wird ein recht unbrauchbares Öl beigelegt, das ich nicht für diese Steine verwenden würde. Es wird in der Anleitung als Öl für Diamant Steine erwähnt und bei der Lagerung von diesen Schleifsteinen wird empfohlen, diese trocken zu benutzten und sie nach einer Reinigung mit Wasser und einer alten Zahnbürste trocken aufzubewahren. Das Öl ist also gar nicht nötig für ein besseres Schleifergebnis oder eine Art Kühlung der Steine. Die Kritik an der Halterung und deren Qualität ist meines Erachtens etwas übertrieben. Ja, die Halterung ist etwas wacklig und ja, die Daumenschraube ist bei dem kleinsten Winkel etwas im Weg aber man kann die Halterung ja auch einfach umdrehen und schon ist die Schraube unten und stört nicht mehr. Die Qualität des Sets ist jetzt nicht gerade Spitzenklasse aber dicke Grate an den Pressstellen der Plastikteile gibt es nicht, sodass man sich beim Verwenden schneiden würde oder dergleichen. Mir gefällt an diesem Set, dass es so einfach gehalten ist und dass man schnell mit dem Schärfprozess beginnen kann und dieser nicht sehr lange dauert. Für mich ist der Preis vollkommen in Ordnung und ich würde es mir auch wieder kaufen.

The answer is yes, it made my high quality steel knives at least as sharp as utility knives. I watched the knife sharpening review Project Farm did and decided to treat myself to this more affordable sharpener that seemed to get close to the top results on his testing. His complaints seemed to center around user-friendliness, which I would have to concur with. It's a little cumbersome to set up and hold, but in spite of that you can get fantastic results. I would have to say that given the affordability, that still warrants a 5 star review. Now to talk about the results, which are somewhat subjective since I don't have a proper way to test sharpness, but I think they're useful anyway. So I sharpened my recently purchased CIVIVI Elementum because it was losing its edge from the heavy use my pocket knives tend to see. I sharpened to 25 degrees, which is a little less steep angled than it came from the manufacturer. Once done I quickly ran the knife across a strop with some fine stropping compound. I already thought this knife was insanely sharp, but now I think it's even sharper than when it was new. I can cut thick cardboard with it with a single stroke and best of all it seems to stay sharp much much longer than utility blades do, so I've all but stopped using a utility knife. I'll reserve those for when I need to abuse the blade like cutting shingles or something like that. Another example was this long blade in my Henckels kitchen set that I like to use for cutting watermelon. Watermelon is always a challenge due to the tough skin. I gave this knife the same treatment, except I went to 30 degrees due to the abuse my wife tends to put these knives through, and it didn't seem to matter. It turned out equally as sharp as the 25 degree hone. I was surprised as can be when the blade went through the watermelon with a single easy stroke, which I've never experienced before, including when these knives were brand new, or when I sharpened them using other methods. This kit gets blades **super sharp**, so be very careful handling knives sharpened with it. I couldn't be happier. It takes some time to get the desired results, but man does it deliver, and it really beats the freehand honing kit this replaced (been using one for years, good but not fantastic results). You just simply can't replace the fixed-angle honing technique that this kit allows. Don't waste any time, just buy it. The only way I would say not to is if you want to spend the money and get something a little more user-friendly, otherwise it's a no-brainer. Well worth the purchase price.

Ideal para arreglar el filo y mantenerlo

No soy un profesional de los cuchillos y el afilado. Esta guía de afilado deja un filo muy bueno en casi cualquier pieza, quizá hay mejores y más profesionales pero para un uso doméstico este afilador este perfecto, te incluye una guía para su uso, es un poco incómodo el usarlo pero vale la pena. Lo que no me gustó es que debes comprar la base o soporte por separado o inprovisar uno, pero el resultado obtenido es 👌 genial. en comparación con los sistemas de afilado más profesionales este es el que para mi tiene la mejor relación precio calidad.

I've been using a gatco system for many years now, and I finally wore out most of the stones. The gatco has a much better clamp, with more angles availible for use. I found myself running out of adjustment on high angle knives very often, and going back to the gatco clamp. The stones are smaller but IMHO, higher quality. You can get an edge sharp enough to push cut paper if you take your time and finish with the finest hone. I could never quite get a smooth push cut with my gatco stones that were included with the kit. The finest ceramic hone is excellent, very hard and very smooth. Like any guided system it is limited in what angles you can use. That can be a big deal if you need a bigger angle than the clamp will give you, because heavily reprofiling a blade by hand can easily take hours on end. Different clamp reccomended. Also, long knives will need to have the clamp repositioned down the knife. It's worth investing in 2 clamps if you will be regularly sharpening 6"+ knives. On the other hand, for the money it's tough to do better. You don't need any extra hones to get a decently refined edge, it works well on many different blades, and so far it looks like they will provide many years of use. Unlike the gatco, you can adjust how the rod meets the stone so when they begin to wear you can flat them and adjust the rod. You can also buy new hones (like diamond for reprofiling) with no fear of changing the angle, just adjust the rod. Touch ups won't be as fast as a crock stick system like a sharpmaker, but heavier work is much faster. You can also cut a small relief bevel for ease of sharpening in the futire. This is the type of system I learned on and with the saphhire hone I can catch and split hairs. Even beginners can get excellent working edges with very little practice. Recommended.