Amsoil ENG & Trans Flush

Used this less than 500 miles after I did a fresh oil change, just to see if it would fix my low oil pressure ... and all manner of horrifying goop came out. It did not fix my low oil pressure but I know it cleaned up a bunch of sludge ... I'll use this EVERY oil change now.

Works ok - my problem of oil pressure fluctuating was NOT that engine was 'dirty' - engine oil was too full - check your dipstick CAREFULLY when on level ground.

Used it to flush an engine on 2009 Infiniti G37 coupe. Worked great. Engine gunk cleaned out and now it runs REALLY smooth. (I'm actually shocked.) I would recommend this product.

How did this make it out of the warehouse? Good thing it didn’t leak but it makes one wonder about how breakables are handled.

Must have!!!

Only use this in your transmission if you can replace the transmission filter and drain pan is accessable. This method I've always used to service a transmission and have been successful. Get a clean drain pan, clear see-through hose with the I.D. size of the O.D. of your hard transmission lines, a funnel, blue loctide, an INCH-POUND torque wrench, some ceramic magnets and a new gasket if you don't have a reusable gasket (Most newer vehicles will come with one if your transmission is meant to be serviced). Before you begin, make sure you clean around the drain pan and the floor is clean around you. Dont skip this step! Any contaminants that can be prevented from entering the system necessary for this to be worth it the time doing it (i usually power wash or hose all the way around the pan or use compressed air and manually scrub what i think could be an issue wen removing the pan). Now you can begin. Drain the fluid from the pan if you have a drain plug. If you don't have a drain plug, you can get a fluid extractor and extract the fluid in the pan from the fill tube where the dipstick goes in. If you have a drain plug on your torque converter you'll want to drain that as well. You'll want to measure exactly how much fluid you extracted or drained so try not to spill any while doing this. Next, add the flush and new transmission fluid (i usually use a cheaper fluid first to aid with the flush but still rated the same as factory specifications). Add the same amount of fluid you measured when you drained or extracted before. Now, get your magnets i mentioned you would use earlier and place a couple on the bottom of the drain pan. This step is not necessary but it gives me peace of mind in hopes of keeping all metal shavings that could possibly be in the system glued to the bottom of the pan. Next step, start the vehicle and shift from park, reverse, and drive holding it in each gear for at least 5 seconds and let the flush do it's thing. Do this for 15 minutes. Put a timer on or take note of the time and watch the clock. The next step would be to repeat the previous steps you used to drain the fluid. Once you've done that, remove the pan in order to access your filter so you can replace it with a new one. make sure any old seals that may be on the old filter are also removed and replaced. Ok, now that you've replaced your filter and installed a new transmission pan gasket, if necessary (NEVER USE GASKET MAKER to re-seal a transmission pan), re-install your CLEAN pan and CLEAN bolts. Coat the first 3-5 threads of every bolt with blue loctide. This will prevent them from coming lose and causing the pan to leak later. I hand tighten every single bolt using the correct sized socket and short extension without the ratchet. {Good practice when installing any type of pan, valve cover, manifold, or even cylinder heads, is to start from the middle and work your way out in an x-pattern. As if you were to be tightening a tire.} After you hand tighten all the bolts torque them to factory specifications with an INCH-POUND torque wrench that's rated enough for the torque specs of your vehicle. Don't use a FT-LB rated torque wrench for these tiny bolts as it won't give you the accuracy you need for this application. Don't ever use power tools neither or you could break the heads off the bolts and then you'll have bigger problems that could have been avoided with a little patience. Also, loctide sets in 30-minutes so move fast. Take any longer and it will defeat the purpose of the loctide. Ok now that you have everything reinstalled and is up to your standards. Fill the transmission back up with clean fluid to exactly how much you drained when replacing the filter. After you have replaced what you took out your ready to drain out the rest of what might still be in the system. Disconnect your return line AFTER the transmission cooler and connect your clear see-through hose with a hose clamp and put the other end into a clear container. You can do this next step by yourself but having an extra person helps. If you're working alone, what you're gonna want to do is start the vehicle and quickly look under at your clear hose until you start to see clean transmission fluid. If you couldn't drain the torque converter previously then it will take a bit longer till you see the clean fluid coming out as the torque converter holds most of your transmission fluid. If you were able to drain it then turn off the vehicle as soon as you see fluid coming out your clear hose and refill the amount of fluid you lost. Repeat this process until you are absolutely sure there is nothing but new clean fluid coming from your clear hose. After you do that, connect your factory transmission line with a new hose clamp to seal it tight. Replace the transmission fluid you've kept track of and measured during this whole process and take it for a ride after. Recheck and top off until you are in the fill mark range of your dipstick. This is the only way i believe to have success while servicing your transmission, ask me how i know.. i hope my method helps anyone in anyway possible as that was my intention when writing this out. Make sure to be safe anytime while working on your vehicle. Wear eye protection, set the parking brake, choke the tires on both sides to prevent the vehicle from moving. Some extra tips, I like to leave the extra magnets on the pan. I also have some on my engine oil pan and gearboxes. the less metal shavings in the system the better. Also, it's always best to service your vehicle when the fluids (EXCEPT for the cooling system) have been warmed up. The hotter the better just be careful not to burn yourself!!!

I love that you can go to a quick oil change place, park and do your own flush before the oil change. Really cleaned things up and my oil is cleaner on dipstick.

Ayudó perfectamente a poner en marcha una moto con un aceite de 5 años

No pude notar algún cambio ya que mi motor tiene apenas 30 mil km recorridos. Su uso fue meramente confiando en las propiedades que dice tener este detergente para motor. Antes de comenzar y con el vehículo frío me dí a la tarea de levantar el vehículo para extraer aproximadamente 500 ml de aceite, así es, aflojando el tornillo y sin soltarlo para volverlo a enroscar Yo sólo agregué media botella. Abrí el acceso de llenado y vacie media botella cuando la temperatura del vehículo rondaba los 45°C., lo encendí pero en lugar de dejarlo en ralentí por 10 a 15 minutos me llevé el vehículo a circular por exactamente 15 minutos permitiéndole primero superar los 75°C para poder exigirle un poco mas al vehículo sin exagerar en la aceleración para finalmente alcanzar los 90°C., para después regresar al punto de salida y dejar el motor andando 1 minuto mas ya estando estacionado. Inmediatamente empecé a levantar y asegurar el coche para abrir el tornillo de drenaje y comenzar con el drenado, con el vehículo caliente. El contenido salió verdaderamente negrísimo. Dicen que este producto permite que molecularmente todos los contaminantes en el aceite queden suspendidos para que al drenar no quede de ellos nada en las paredes del carter así como en el circuito. Por eso antes de abrir por completo el tapon del dren es importante aflojar el filtro un poco antes de quitarlo por completo para que al aflojar por completo el tapon del dren salga la mayor cantidad posible de aceite viejo. (Y reducir la posibilidad de que permanezca aceite viejo en el circuito o en las partes superiores del motor) Descubrí que salieron mas de 4 litros, cuando en realidad mi vehículo lleva unos 3,9 litros a 4.(probablemente no alcanzo a salir todo en el cambio pasado o era suciedad que ya se había formado). Aún con la cantidad de aceite extraída antes de usar el producto. Se aprovecha la temperatura normal de funcionamiento para hacer que salga todo mas fácilmente.

Original and Genuine

Full marks. It cleaned the engine thoroughly.

Quality made in USA Product well packed comes in sealed pouch. Imported by reputed company Greeves Cotton India !