30950 CV Joint Banding Tool

Cant do boot clamps without this tool. Very well made and works perfectly. Great size.

This Lisle tool is a good tool for smaller clamps and medium duty clamps. It seems quality made and durable. I like how the tool allows for attaching 1/2" drive breaker bars for additional leverage. I give it 5 stars for quality and durability. Though I found this tool is not the best option for clamping down the Oetiker 167 heavy duty clamps used on Mercedes cv axles. Even with a 16" breaker bar on I could not get the clamps closed enough. I am not bashing the tool im just saying these plier type tools are not the best option if you are working on cv axles that use Oetiker heavy duty clamps because of the clamping force required. Instead I found the small vise type clamping tool is the tool you want.

This tool works on Toyota Camry CV boot, the OEM ones that come with the Toyota kit. The inner boot uses a 102.55 clamp, and a 39mm clamp. The dampener uses 38.8 clamp, and the outside boot uses a 34mm clamp and a 99mm clamp that is thicker than the others. The tan grease goes on the tripod needle bearings on the inner CV. Don't clean the old grease out, because you'll have metal on metal when you first start driving. Just slam more grease in. Vacuum your whole shop and close all the windows before you start, so you don't have dust and metal shavings laying around. The idea is, you want a clean room, and you want to make sure you avoid metal on metal parts when you re-assemble your CV joints. Buy a box of lint free cloth paper towels, and cover the CV joint when you remove the boot, so no dirt or metal shavings or sawdust in your garage can accidentally fall into the CV joint. Do NOT clean any parts with brake cleaner. Wipe it with a rag. If you use brake cleaner, you'll remove the grease film protecting the bearings, the inner races, and the cup (tulip) which allows rust to form. If you clean everything with brake cleaner, then let it sit dry overnight, it will flash rust, and then you could potentially cause more damage than if you had just wiped the grease off with a dry rag. If your CV boot was split, and if you are hearing clicking, then you need to throw away your entire axle, because it's toast. Clicking is metal on metal, and it means the bearing is binding. That means, it's shot. If your boot was just leaking, be sure that the needle bearings or ball bearings weren't make ANY NOISE WHATSOEVER, and make sure they are WET WITH GREASE. If they are wet with grease, then repack the new grease packets in (tan polyurea on the inner) and (black with molybendum extra thick wheel bearing grease) on the outer (ball bearing outside wheel side CV joint).

If you can get a strong enough grip on it, it works pretty well on Med & Light duty clamps. Is a good unit if your hands are big enough & strong enough or have light to med duty clamps to put on. I have used it several times to do some cv & drive shaft clamps, but use the OTC 4722 Stinger Heavy-Duty CV Boot Clamp Installer for the boots on out 2 grand cherokee's & the boots on our 3/4 to P/U drive shaft boots. A minor handle shape change like some of the napa ones that are slightly contoured IN some to bring the handles a little closer together would be a great improvement. Otherwise, it works for it's intended use fairly well.

Exactly what you need for thick Honda genuine boot clamps

Works great. Excellent product as usual from this company!

This is the correct tool for most OEM Honda CV boot clamps. The two clamps that came with the outboard boots were correct. The ones that went on the inboard side were not. I used a set from Napa to match the outboards. These have a good clamping force. I recommend

First time use of this tool was perfect. Clamp closure was factory looking and tight. Be prepared to squeeze HARD, or use the 1/2 openings on the handles with a few ratchets for more leverage.