QIACHIP DC 12V 1CH 433Mhz RF Wireless Relay Remote Control Light Momentary Switch Transmitter with Receiver (1 Relay)

One of my concerns was adequate range of the remote control so I preformed some measurements before I installed these in my Jeep to control the rock lights. As shipped the antenna is a short curled up black wire. Leaving the wire curled up and testing the range I found I could get 150 feet from the receiver and the hand held remote transmitter was able to connect and control 100% of the time. As I went beyond that point out to 175 and beyond the receiver was having difficulty seeing the click of the remote. It would work intermittently only. Uncurling the wire and making it stand upright I repeated the experiment and was able to get out to 225 feet before the receiver was no longer able to reliably respond to the remote. At 225 feet it was 100% reliable. Beyond that I could get it to work intermittently. Great features with their system able to interchange remotes from one relay or the other. The ability to program each button is brilliant and very flexible. I'll use a two button remote to control my system and a three button remote to program my strobes and then put it away until needed later. The remotes feel good in the hand, not cheap. Installation is simple with two wires for + and - 12 VDC and then the relay one input and the two outputs. One output is normally closed - it connects to the relay's common input when at rest and goes off/opens when the relay activates. The second output is normally open - it is disconnected from the relay's common input when at rest and comes one when the relay activates. I attempted to measure the current draw of the receiver deactivated and the current draw is so small my digital meter does read it - it's less than 0.01 amps. With the relay activated I read 0.025 amps or about 1/3 of a watt power so this thing is very frugal. I have no concerns about leaving this on my car battery for weeks and months at that low of a drain. There are no written instructions included so just print out the photo here or follow the video. I bought a total of five of these relays and will likely buy more. Good product.

Excellent. So just remember these things if you are wiring this (I used it as a momentary switch): 1) you need a separate POS and NEG cables to power this remote relay device as it needs power for receiving signal and operating its relay (yes, you can run it off a 9v battery if you'd like). They get wired into the V+ and V- ports. 2) you plug a LIVE positive wire directly into the device that requires powering (actuator, DC device, horn, light, etc).and NOT into this wireless relay - You plug the LIVE negative wire into this wireless relay and the NEG wire for the device also into this relay. So this wireless relay ONLY operates on the NEGATIVE wiring. The photo attached indicates exactly what's required. Study the photo well. 3) You need to program the remotes. Easy enough. Just press the button on the circut board and while the red light on the board is on, press the remote. Do the same for the other remote. Signal strength is strong - I didn't need to fully extend the coiled antenna cable and it operates from around 8 feet away. Perfect for my needs (popping the hatch of my van). Stuck the other remote onto the hatch as an easy way to open it from the inside. Immediate button press action. No delay whatsoever.

For years when adding lights on my truck it was always the same run wires, find a way to get through the firewall to the dash, drill a hole to mount a switch. These RF relays are great. I can operate lights using the provided FOB from inside my truck or outside the truck even when driving down the road. Run your pos/Neg up into the engine bay and wire to the relay. Program the relay and your done, no drilling or fishing wire through the firewall. Currently I have 2 relays installed one for LED's around the GMC logo on the Grille and one for a set of 7 inch LED driving lights.. I mounted a bus bar for positive and negative and connected the bus bars to my battery so I could have multiple 12V power sources off the Bus bar and multiple ground connections off the Negative bus Bar. I programmed the relays to open and stay open with 1 click and then turn off when clicked again. Comes with instructions pretty self explanatory if your familiar with 12V wiring. Run you hot wire to V+ and ground to V- . You also have to run a hot wire from your battery to the COM port. So your input to the relay will be 2 hot wires and 1 grouhd from your battery. Your output will use the NO port to lights etc...Make sure when coming out of the NO port you put an inline fuse to protect your device the relay is operating. Follow the included instructions to setup the relay the way you want to use it. Once you have power to the relay click the button on the Relay 8 times to clear any programming, the light on the PCB board will flash quickly then go off. for my installation constantly on or off I pressed the programming key twice, The LED on the relay circuit board will light up steady, press the key on the Fob you want to control the relay. your device should come on, press it again and the relay will open and your device will go off. So far pretty impressed for the price point.

As others have pointed out, the wiring instructions are unclear. The instructions seem to spend a lot of time explaining how to program the switch, but not how to actually wire it properly. Fortunately, other buyers are here to help. I have included pictures and diagrams of how I wired it, and I hope this will help you. You can wire this without the use of WAGO's, but the terminals on the switch are quite small, and it can be difficult to get all the wires needed stuffed into those tiny terminals. So here is how I wired it: Gang all the negative wires into a three-conductor Wago. One negative wire is supply in, one negative wire goes to the V- terminal on the switch, and one negative wire connects to the load. Gang three positive wires into a different three-conductor Wago. One positive wire is the supply in, one positive wire goes to the V+ terminal on the switch, and one positive wire goes to the COM terminal on the switch. The last positive wire exits the switch at the ON terminal, and connect to the load. Once you connect a source, the circuit should work. When I first built this circuit, it didn't work. And I spent about two weeks and 6 replacement parts dicking around till I figured out the problem. Which had nothing to do with the switch, rather it was the power supply. The supply I was using bench tested fine at 12-14v output, but would fail under load. It took me far too long to understand the problem because of the successful bench tests. A word to the wise when wiring this, or any other circuit, start troubleshooting at the beginning, not the end. If I had verified the source first, instead of accepting the bench tests, I could have saved myself a lot of trouble. Don't be like me, look at the whole problem. Anywho. You can wire this without the Wago's by ganging the negative in and the negative load out on the V- terminal, ganging the positive in and a jumper wire on the V+ terminal, connecting the positive load out to the ON terminal, and connecting the other end of the jumper wire to the COM terminal. It will be tough to gang those wires onto the switches terminals, but it is possible. Other than the wiring, the switch works as advertised. You can program it to have a momentary on for as long as you hold down the button, (how I used it), on with one button press and off with a second button press, or a delay mode that will automatically turn the switch off after a set amount of time. The unit is very small and should fit into tiny spaces with ease. The holes in the housing for the wiring are strange. I used a set of snips to widen it into a little slot to allow my wires more access. The plastic housing cuts very easily. The switch comes with two remotes with the batteries included. I can't speak on the longevity of the unit as I haven't gotten that far in my build. I will update this review later if new information presents itself in the future.

Used this to replace a non-working remote receiver on a garage door opener. Works perfectly and has good range. The only thing to be aware of is that the buttons on the remotes can easily be pushed by accident. Other than that minor design issue, the product works as described. For those using it on a garage opener, just connect wires the two terminals on the opener that are connected to your interior push button, and connect those wires to the normally open terminals on this product. Then be sure to set it to Momentary Mode. I've attached pics of the included instructions here for reference. You'll need a 12V power supply which many people have extras of from old devices, but if not, can be purchased on Amazon for under $10. Good luck!

Works exactly as advertised but be warned that there are several different remote control options and I did not get the one I was expecting (my fault, not theirs). There is the A/B remote, the single button remote, the A/B/C remote, and the brushed-metal A/B/(C/D?) remote. I thought I was getting A/B but I got the single button. Just review your selection more carefully than I did. Very easy to set up and wire. The instructions are quite good considering other similar products that may not come with instructions at all. I like that there's both an NO and an NC relay built into it for versatility.

Great little receiver for the price. I’m using it on an older model garage. The installation was easy and range is good.

Worked like a charm as a garage door opener with extremely good range. The instructions were very good. I would rate it as an A+++

Works on my car projects

Works exactly as described. Used it as a work around for a garage door opener who's transmit/receive function stopped working. Just hooked it to the wired connection on the opener. One note, the documentation had the positive and negative reversed. The correct orientation is on the bottom of the PCB.

Hanno "ereditato" alcuni elementi dei noti Emylo. Il contenitore è il medesimo ma la circuiteria interna, marchiata Qiachip, è diversa e "traballa" all'interno del contenitore. Per quanto riguarda la numerazione dei ricevitori, i vari moduli riceventi NON sono distinguibili fra loro perché NON contraddistinti in fabbrica con il corrispondente canale di trasmissione sul telecomando. Se necessario, occorre testarli tutti prima e segnarli con una lettera per non confonderli fra loro durante il montaggio. Aggiornamento: dei due trasmettitori in dotazione solo uno riesce ad attivare i ricevitori, l'altro è programmato su frequenze diverse e NON può essere riprogrammato usando il primo (è un modello NON programmabile). BUTTATO VIA.

J'ai utilisé l'émetteur récepteur pour une ouverture fermeture de barrière. Raccorder en 5 minutes et programmer mes 5 télécommandes en même temps. Super produit

Die Einrichtung ist gut beschrieben und alles funktioniert einwandfrei. Man kann die Stromversorgung auch mittels Schalter unterbrechen, damit nicht ständig Spannung anliegt, und die gespeicherten Funktionen bleiben erhalten. Ich benutze die Schalter Kastenwagen um die Rückfahrkamera ohne Rücklichtschaltung zu nutzen und dazu extra Scheinwerfer einzuschalten.